Cooking Things: Highways and Hedges enchiladas

Sometimes you don’t quite have the classic ingredients for a mole poblano, but you have lots of other ingredients which live in the same neighborhood, so you go out into the highways and the hedges and invite them to the party instead.  And then you name the mole in their honour.

The sine qua non of a mole poblano are pumpkin and sesame seeds, and bitter chocolate which gives the sauce a deeper flavour profile.  Guess what I didn’t have ….  But there is such a thing as high-cacao bittersweet baking chocolate, and almonds and pine nuts are excellent for adding a nutty flavour especlally when roasted or fried off.  And guess what I did have … ?

Like most sauces, the mole will freeze beautifully if you want to work ahead by a few days for a party, or even to have something in reserve for dinner-in-a-month.

“Highways and Hedges” enchiladas de queso con mole austineño

Categories: Tex-Mex, Cheese, Casseroles

Serves 8

  Amount  Measure       Ingredient — Preparation Method
————————  ————————————  ——————————————————————————————————
  6                     Chiles anchos   3                     Chiles guajillos   2                     Chlles moras                         Reserved chile water      ½        teaspoon  Salt, or to taste   1           teaspoon  Mexican orégano   1           teaspoon  Ground cumin      ½        teaspoon  Ground coriander   2             ounces  70% cacao bittersweet chocolate, broken up   1              large  Diced onion   2        tablespoons  Lard or oil      ¾             cup  Slivered almonds      ¾             cup  Pine nuts   2        tablespoons  Lard or oil                         Vegetable broth   12            ounces  Shredded asadero cheese   12            ounces  Shredded Swiss cheese   16                    Corn tortillas   4             ounces  Sliced black olives   3             ounces  Crema fresca, thinned slightly with water                         Guacamole, to garnish                         Cilantro sprigs, to garnish

Preheat the oven to 350° F.

Place the dried chiles in a large bowl (stoneware is good) and pour over boiling water to cover.  To make sure hydration is thorough, cut a small hole into the side of each chile to let in the water.  Allow the chiles to soak, anything from two hours to overnight.  (This part of the process is forgiving.)  Drain, and reserve the soaking water.

Remove the stems, seeds, and veins from the rehydrated chiles.  Tear them into pieces and place into a blender or food processor.  Process until the chiles are a smooth, thick liquid, adding some of the reserved chile water as needed to achieve smoothness.  Place into a medium-large saucepan.  Add the salt and spices.  Break the chocolate into pieces and add to the sauce.

Sauté the diced onion in melted lard or oil in a skillet until it is translucent and beginning to brown.  Remove from the heat and add to the chiles.  Simmer the sauce for ten to fifteen minutes over a low flame, to allow the chocolate to melt and flavours to blend.  Add a little vegetable broth if the sauce seems too thick.

Wipe out the skillet and add two tablespoons of lard or oil.  Over a medium flame, sauté the almonds and pine nuts until they begin to brown.  Transfer the nuts to a blender and whirl until smooth, adding enough vegetable broth to make a thick slurry.  Fold into the sauce.  Add a little more broth if the sauce seems too thick.

Combine the shredded cheeses.  Heat the tortillas, six at a time, on a plate in a microwave for sixty seconds to soften them.  Oil a 9 by 13 inch baking dish.  Add a large pinch of cheese to each tortilla and roll them up, placing them seam side down in the dish.  The filled tortillas should be a little bigger around than a frankfurter.

Scatter the sliced olives over the enchiladas, then spread the sauce evenly, using a spatula to fill the edges and corners, cover loosely with foil, and place into the preheated oven.  Bake at 350° for 15 minutes, then remove the foil and bake an additional five minutes.  Allow to rest five minutes before serving.  Plate the enchiladas; drizzle crema fresca in a zig-zag over each serving.  Garnish each plate with a generous dollop of guacamole and a sprig of cilantro.

Copyright © 2019 Sam Waring

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Per Serving (excluding unknown items): 907 Calories; 79g Fat (66.7% calories from fat); 36g Protein; 53g Carbohydrate; 12g Dietary Fiber; 94mg Cholesterol; 779mg Sodium. Exchanges: 2 Grain(Starch); 3½ Lean Meat; 1 Vegetable; ½ Fruit; 0 Non-Fat Milk; 13 Fat; 0 Other Carbohydrates.

 

The nuts added sweetness to the sauce, while the chocolate increased the depth, adding a bit of femme fatale to the flavour profile. 

About Marchbanks

I'm an elderly tech analyst, living in Texas but not of it, a cantankerous and venerable curmudgeon. I'm yer SOB grandpa who has NO time for snot-nosed, bad-mannered twerps.
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